Istanbul march 13

we did leave eugene's around 4am and did make our flight. changed planes in amsterdam and after they had to take someone's cell phone out of checked baggage, our flight took off. first thing we saw after breaking through the clouds in istanbul was a soccer match and a marks and spencer store. touched down around 3pm. after negotiating the subway. to the tramway, we watched the city unfold in gray, rubble and gold.

stuffed into rush hour train, we managed to get off at our stop and were approached by about 4 people for "help." found the pension and crashed after a nearby dinner. the next few days were somewhat of a whilrwind. but the highlights were:

walking across the galata bridge and the main street in the cool suburb of beyoglu. a henry luc-bresson retrospective at the photography museum. were introduced to our first "immam blast" at 5am.

Next was The Blue Mosque and Aya Sofya (hagia sofia), one of the world's greatest builidings, fresh fish sandwiches along the ferry docks downtown. The spice bazaar and chaotic grand bazaar. stumbled upon a kebap house with peppers that burned like crazy.

next day was the grand bazaar, beyazite mosque near istanbul university. a super-lame calligraphy museum. two tombs. the suleymaniye camii (mosque). beyoglu on a saturday night must not be missed. throngs of people just walking and ducking into food stalls, bars and clubs. music at turku bar. the streets were still way alive way into the night.

awoke to an even more sadistic immam at 5:20am. Museum of islamic art and history. whirling dirvish show (total scam) Hamdi kebaps with equally impressive view.

next day we walked all over city trying to find the modern museum. when we finally got there it was closed. (the entire website was in turkish)

next day went straight to the museum, then on a quest to find addresistanbul, a modern home furnishing mecca. after two busses, 2 miles walking, and a cab, we found it. then delvi restaurant in samatya near the wall edge.

next day was the topkapi palace, center of ottoman politics and power and home to the sultans. visited the treasury, the harem quarters, and actual specimins of the muhammed's beard hair and a tooth.

stay tuned ....