Forever known for the being the first city hit by an atomic bomb, Hiroshima now has over a million people and is thriving with a vibrant cultural, shopping and night scene. Perhaps the most magnificent things we visited while here were the Mitaki-Jima temple complex and the 500m ascent of Mt. Misen on Miajima island. Both were scenes of what everyone dreams of when they think about Japan.
On Sunday, we were off to explore the rest of Japan (or as much as we could with a 7-day rail pass). First stop was near Fukuoka, where we sampled our first sushi plucked from circling conveyor belts and dipped into our first Onsen, or Japenese Bath, which usually consists of a hot pool -- many times filled with hot, volcanic-based water (with a pungent sulphuric odor to match), which is believed of course to have the requisite healing properties. No cold bath to throw the body into convulsions however like in Russia. Just a shower where you sit and get clean afterward.
The most interesting thing about the bath this day had actually had nothing to do with the bath. In the area where everyone disrobes, an older Japanese man very vocally becomes animated upon seeing Andy, admiring his large stature (compared to Japanese men) like he's a giant or something. So he starts comparing calves, legs, torsos, everything -- and I mean EVERYTHING! -- not the most peaceful welcome to a completely foreign enviornment where everyone gets naked (luckily, he had already been to a russian bath). And maybe the guy was drunk or something too because the exhuberance and seemingly never resolved point or new information except that Andy was 'big,' seemed very un-Japanese. Finally, culturally rude or no, Andy said, 'yeah, yeah, listen I gotta go,' and got out of there. When leaving the bath, there was another older Japanese man who commented on his size and that Andy must have done 'sports.' Luckily, that clunky conversation ended
quickly after they talked about Hideki Matsui.
On Monday, it was off to the fantasmagical Tokyo which did not disappoint. The scene was a surreal mix of crisply dressed businessmen emerging from seedy, dark lounges onto neon-fried streets -- stylish guys and scantily clad girls with sparkling, glittery cell phones and fingernails to match. The scrambling, kaleidoscopic Tsukiji fish market was a highlight -- as was the insanely fresh sashimi had at a stall nearby.
Caught the first bullet train for the north and by around 4pm, we made it to the northernmost island, Hokkaido, more specifically, Toya-ko where there were two active volcanoes.
The big one, Mt. Uzusu, reeked havoc only last 2000. The hikewe took around the outer rim was stunning, steam rising up on either side of the trail. Back at the hotel, we dipped in the onsen there and caught the fireworks show (given every evening for the throngs in the giant hotels in the next town) from the boat. 
The next day, after Sarah loaded us up with trays of beautiful sashimi and rolls, we headed south, taking three trains including the last one a bullet train screaming towards Nagayo (we couldn't get the one to Kyoto we wanted). Crashed at a hotel there, then took early one to Kyoto. In the sweltering heat in Kyoto, we rented bikes and actually caught most of the temples and shrines in the Northeast and Southeast sections of town before the day was over.
Caught the 9pm train back to Hiroshima and effectively ended our 7-day pass.
In Hiroshima, we saw the 61-year anniversary of the A-bomb strike on August 6 (bells toll at 8:15am, the exact time the bomb hit) and evening ceremony where hundreds of lanterns are lit and floated up the river commemorating the 140,000 lost lives that day. 
The rest of the week we spent seeing the nightlife here, resting a bit, and getting ready for our next phase: S. Korea then an
adventurous tour back through China, to parts known and unknown across the Central and Southern regions.
Our plan is to leave tomorrow on the fast ferry from Fukuoka to Busan in South Korea. But first, as a kind of a 'final goodbye' tonight, we're going to a Fugu restaurant -- serving the poisonous pufferfish that must be prepared by a highly specialized chef, lest the diner meet their demise. So, if in the coming weeks, you notice a mysterious absence of entries, you'll know why.
Thanks: Malaina, Jan and Jolon for letting us regroup at their place, for giving us an overview of the island and introducing us to the joys of udon.