When we saw daylight,

we knew we were alive. To get to Korea we chose a dizzying mix of cab to bullet train to bus to ferry to train to subway to foot. Astoundingly, we made each connection seamlessly and waited no longer than 15 minutes in between any of them. The bullet train from Hiroshima took us to Fukuoka (the town we had stopped in earlier briefly on our first leg). We decided to 'wing' the ferry to Japan and it paid off. turned out there was one leaving in 10 minutes which Andy immediately bought a ticket for. Waiting in line, an attendant frantically yelled out 'Beetle! Beetle?' Sarah said yes (it was the name of the hydrofoil we were on). I thought they would just move us to the front of the line and we would board. Instead, we enter another huge room with literally hundreds more people waiting. It was passport control/customs. We had forgotten about that part. But to their credit, they whisked us past everyone, saving us about 2 full hours then onto the boat which already had its engines running. As soon as we sat down, the boat pulled away. The trip to Busan (or Pusan), Korea took about 3 hours. In Busan, we boarded the fast train to Seoul and arrived there a few hours later, taking a subway to the hotel, and eating dumplings and kimchee in the homeland for the first time.


The next day, we treated ourselves to an English bookstore and stumbled on about 200 protesters sitting in the street with 500 riot police were gearing up to remove them. The protesters had music blaring through speakers and would occasionally chant countered by the police yelling demands over their loudspeaker. It seemed like it would go on for hours and blow over peacefully and we moved on to see the rest of the city.

Perhaps the most fascinating was visiting the DMZ through a tour led by the USO. We boarded a bus early in the morning and it seemed like there was barbed wire set up all along the river for the entire trip from Seoul to the border. We crossed a couple of checkpoints, including a bridge where you weave in and out of black and yellow bumblebee-looking metal barricades until you come to the US Camp. We were briefed by U.S. and South Korean Soldiers in conjunction with the UN peacekeeping mission then boarded a military bus, escorted by South Korean Soldiers through the first (and last) 3?lines of defense. A huge mound with wire that is designed to stop tanks. A second minefield. Third, an enormous wire fence with little stones piled on each other which was a technique South Koreans had used for centuries to detect if a fence had ever been tampered with or breached.?All three of these defenses we were told stretched the length of the Korean peninsula, diving the two countries from sea to sea.


We then came to the 'Freedom Bulding,' a UN-designated safe zone marking the border where the South and North Koreans patrol vigilantly. Here, they stand meters apart from each other with nothing in-between, the South Korean soldiers adopting a stiff Tae Kwan Do defense stance the entire time we are there. Then we see the crisply-dressed North Korean soldiers looking at us through binoculars! creepy! -- However it was also strange because either their crisp uniforms were ill-fitting, ( i.e. too big for their bodies), or the soldiers were slightly malnourished, which took away a little of their fierceness. We were told not to point or use any derragatory or inflammatory language, as the North was listening and could construe anything as hostile UN actions.

We even saw one of the three tunnels dug by North Korean to invade the south. Which, I understand the North only recently admitted was theirs (previously they had claimed it was a South Korean tunnel to invade them). Then we got to go up to high ground and see into North Korea itself through binoculars. In the distance, you could see the third largest city in North Korea and barely make out through the glasses the giant white statue president Kim made for himself. The closer North Korean town, the one flying the world's largest flag, is abandoned.

The rest of the week saw us enjoying the art scene in Seoul as well as the rest of the city, and getting ready for our second leg to China. This time, we had to buy one air ticket if we wanted to go overland through remote, vast parts of China and see everything we wanted to while still getting to Vietnam on time.


With all our bags and tickets in hand, we merrily left for the airport, ready to go to X'ian in China. When we got there we were met with a stunner: The gate agent saw that our 2nd entry on our Visa into China had expired. Turns out, BOTH our entries had to be done before a certain date. We felt like idiots and it felt like the guy might as well have reached behind the counter, grabbed a shovel and slammed us across the face. We were dazed, but went all the way back into Seoul and vowed to get new rush Visas for China and readjust our tickets.


After figuring out that the entire Chinese embassy had moved, we did. And in two days, we were on our way back to the airport, this time to go to Quindao, China, opting to make our way to X'ian, China's ancient captial from there by train or plane. We just hoped this time, we'd make it.

large stature

Jan met us at the station. We found Malaina teaching at the language camp with Jolon in hand, good to see/visit with family after almost 5 months of travel. Since they've been living here for quite some time (teaching English among various other things), they were able to give us a good overview of the country before we would set out in a few days.

Forever known for the being the first city hit by an atomic bomb, Hiroshima now has over a million people and is thriving with a vibrant cultural, shopping and night scene. Perhaps the most magnificent things we visited while here were the Mitaki-Jima temple complex and the 500m ascent of Mt. Misen on Miajima island. Both were scenes of what everyone dreams of when they think about Japan.

On Sunday, we were off to explore the rest of Japan (or as much as we could with a 7-day rail pass). First stop was near Fukuoka, where we sampled our first sushi plucked from circling conveyor belts and dipped into our first Onsen, or Japenese Bath, which usually consists of a hot pool -- many times filled with hot, volcanic-based water (with a pungent sulphuric odor to match), which is believed of course to have the requisite healing properties. No cold bath to throw the body into convulsions however like in Russia. Just a shower where you sit and get clean afterward.

The most interesting thing about the bath this day had actually had nothing to do with the bath. In the area where everyone disrobes, an older Japanese man very vocally becomes animated upon seeing Andy, admiring his large stature (compared to Japanese men) like he's a giant or something. So he starts comparing calves, legs, torsos, everything -- and I mean EVERYTHING! -- not the most peaceful welcome to a completely foreign enviornment where everyone gets naked (luckily, he had already been to a russian bath). And maybe the guy was drunk or something too because the exhuberance and seemingly never resolved point or new information except that Andy was 'big,' seemed very un-Japanese. Finally, culturally rude or no, Andy said, 'yeah, yeah, listen I gotta go,' and got out of there. When leaving the bath, there was another older Japanese man who commented on his size and that Andy must have done 'sports.' Luckily, that clunky conversation ended
quickly after they talked about Hideki Matsui.

On Monday, it was off to the fantasmagical Tokyo which did not disappoint. The scene was a surreal mix of crisply dressed businessmen emerging from seedy, dark lounges onto neon-fried streets -- stylish guys and scantily clad girls with sparkling, glittery cell phones and fingernails to match.

The scrambling, kaleidoscopic Tsukiji fish market was a highlight -- as was the insanely fresh sashimi had at a stall nearby.

Caught the first bullet train for the north and by around 4pm, we made it to the northernmost island, Hokkaido, more specifically, Toya-ko where there were two active volcanoes.
The big one, Mt. Uzusu, reeked havoc only last 2000. The hikewe took around the outer rim was stunning, steam rising up on either side of the trail. Back at the hotel, we dipped in the onsen there and caught the fireworks show (given every evening for the throngs in the giant hotels in the next town) from the boat.

The next day, after Sarah loaded us up with trays of beautiful sashimi and rolls, we headed south, taking three trains including the last one a bullet train screaming towards Nagayo (we couldn't get the one to Kyoto we wanted). Crashed at a hotel there, then took early one to Kyoto. In the sweltering heat in Kyoto, we rented bikes and actually caught most of the temples and shrines in the Northeast and Southeast sections of town before the day was over.


Caught the 9pm train back to Hiroshima and effectively ended our 7-day pass. In Hiroshima, we saw the 61-year anniversary of the A-bomb strike on August 6 (bells toll at 8:15am, the exact time the bomb hit) and evening ceremony where hundreds of lanterns are lit and floated up the river commemorating the 140,000 lost lives that day.

The rest of the week we spent seeing the nightlife here, resting a bit, and getting ready for our next phase: S. Korea then an
adventurous tour back through China, to parts known and unknown across the Central and Southern regions.

Our plan is to leave tomorrow on the fast ferry from Fukuoka to Busan in South Korea. But first, as a kind of a 'final goodbye' tonight, we're going to a Fugu restaurant -- serving the poisonous pufferfish that must be prepared by a highly specialized chef, lest the diner meet their demise. So, if in the coming weeks, you notice a mysterious absence of entries, you'll know why.

Thanks: Malaina, Jan and Jolon for letting us regroup at their place, for giving us an overview of the island and introducing us to the joys of udon.

Brilliant idea

Tianjin turned out to be our first Chinese city with healthy capitalist overtones from the looks of all the skyscrapers and neon (not really Beijing's style at all). As well as the overall mood of the city. There were no other foreigners here to speak of, no English signage, but ironically (and this was the exact opposite of Beijing) no fascination or intrigue with foreigners. And Tianjin is no small town, with over 9 million people -- more than New York City. Parts of it are almost Vegas-like with neon signs scattered throughout the two main shopping thoroughfares. There's even a handy Wal Mart we used to get classic dehydrated ramen, box of Tide detergent, a big tube of toothpaste (a rarity in these parts) and even chewing gum for the ferry -- there was the familiar big, black low price signs and lots of focus on volume. Also, it was crowded on this Saturday night as older women huddled in the supermarket section below trying to beat each other out for day-old, two-for-one special bread that would be tagged, carted out, and immediately pounced on.
Sunday saw us visit the antique market, the 'foreign' market (which was supposed to have cool vintage clothes from Japan and Korea, but in reality was not much more than rubble piles with some food carts and cheap clothes scattered among tile cleanser and dishwashing detergent. A bakery, open for 80 years (we were salivating for their glutenous rice cakes flash-fried in sesame oil we had heard about), had been replaced by a mobile phone store.

Andy did get a haircut, or more like an accidental buzz due to language difficulties, Sarah's peaceful, freindly countenance turned to a look of horror as the shears dug deep almost to the bone.



Monday we got up at 5:45am to catch a cab to the bus to go to Tanggu, but from the language difficulties it was still unclear if the taxi would take 45 minutes or the bus would take 45 minutes or if both would take a total of 90. We knew it should only take about 45 minutes outside of town and the recommenders didn't even know about the train, so Andy had the brilliant idea of trying the train station with its 'reliable' trains and cadre of minibuses (according to the book).

As Sarah guarded the luggage, Andy found out the early train was completely full, putting us behind schedule to get to the ferry in time for the required 2-hour departure window. At this point the language barrier became almost impossible. Andy was having trouble figuring out exactly where buses left from, which ones were going to Tanggu, when they would leave and when they would arrive. There were no schedules -- more word of mouth. To make matters worse, different people would point in completely different directions. We took a chance on one of the directions, and Andy simply used the tried and true (yet not entirely unscientific) method known as, 'asking.' Each bus that went by he asked, until sure enough, one to Tanggu emerged. No markings. Just a brown, dented minibus with a driver and about 4 people inside. 'Fare?': about $1 USD. The time to get there?: 2 hours. Way longer than we could afford in our window. Sarah then saw a cab and flagged it down. Andy negotiated a price of $10 USD and we were off. However, he neglected to mention not just Tanggu, but THE DOCK in Tanggu. Which, in a 'small' Chinese city of about 2 million, is still quite a ways from the center. Once we 're'-negotiated the fare, we continued on our way, but not before the driver had to get out of the car and ask different passers-by where the docks were. Twice.

Luckily, we arrived at the ferry terminal outside the time window, but with enough time to board (the next one wasn't until a week later). And when the guidebook said there were no money options at the ferry terminal, they meant it. Almost. We did manage to find out that the cashier at the duty free shop was willing to change USD to Yen or Yuan to Yen (but not Euros to Yen) and that you could change those same currencies actually on the boat (and, incidentally, pay with Yuan), but still the boat was not set up to take credit cards at all and there were no ATM's to be found anywhere (Sarah had been right all along). Not a single one at the terminal or on the boat. Since we had to pay an extra, like $30-40 each for a 'fuel' and 'luggage' tax (2 seperate charges complete with two seperate windows), we found ourselves with almost no Yuan with only a couple of buckets of dried noodles to our name. With visions of a two-day boat ride and few money options, Andy was already thinking of ways to obtain loans from fellow passengers to be paid back in Yen upon reaching the Kobe ATM's. Luckily, we still had a few USD with us and did not have to go hungry -- although the food on the ferry was so bad, we seriously considered hunger a very viable option more than once. Think, 'slightly warmed over' as an overall theme and let your mind go crazy from there. Sarah's unhappiness about the 7:30 AM wakeup call was further exacerbated by the revolting breakfast they dared to call 'free.' Kind of like 'torture' or 'misery' might be ok if it were free.

Amazingly, other than the food, the boat was quite enjoyable. Our cabin had a TV (even though it only broadcast pirated movies -- ones shot with a camcorder in the theatre -- that were mostly dubbed and rarely subtitled -- on its closed circuit network). There was hot water and green tea waiting in our room. A sauna (which wasn't really that warm -- and actually barely broke a sweat-- but it was there), a tepid pool, a room listed as 'game room' but was really storage for beds and laundry room on board. The staff were all surprisingly pleasant and helpful -- and there was even a Karaoke hour. For some reason, the only locals-sung, English song that kept coming up was Billy Joel's ''Honesty...'' (is such a lonely word...

It was a very relaxing two days and was fun seeing the southern islands of South Korea glide by at the beginning of day 2, with unforgettable highlights including passing under the enormously high Shimonseki bridge (Japan) at midnight as well as the other marvelously engineered bridges further into Japan.

We arrived in Kobe on day 2 at about 1pm. Passed through passport control pleased that we brought a photocopy of a ferry schedule as Japan usually requires evidence of onward travel (even though we couldn't purchase a ticket in China). He took the photocopy as 'evidence' and we went in. Then, for some reason, customs takes us aside to a back room for a cursory luggage search that can be best described 'lip service.' He made us take everything out of our packs (which Sarah was none too happy about after a meticulous packing job just an hour before), but never really looked inside the clothes or in our stuff sacks which contained two entire sleeping bags.

That said, Japan turned out to be a civilized oasis of wonders. We stayed with cousins Malaina and Jan and son Jolon in Hiroshima and would use it as a kind of base for the next couple of weeks to explore the island(s) with foreigners' rail passes purchased two months before in Helsinki. The first bullet train pulled away from the station at 7pm as we reached a speed of about 150 mph bound for Hiroshima.